Schiaparelli FW24 Haute Couture collection is by and for artists

When something in the world of haute couture seems impossible to achieve, Schiaparelli proves us otherwise. Daniel Roseberry accomplishes the “impossible” in a new collection inspired by the artists of then and now.

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A seemingly impossible collection, in the words of its designer, “not because it cannot be worn, but because it is extraordinary, a surreal interpretation of a woman’s essential closet”. No one could ever imagine it, not by any stretch of the imagination; unless they bear the name of Daniel Roseberry or are a disciple of Elsa.

In Roseberry’s particular ode to artists, we find a myriad of references to Elsa’s era and even more contemporary names. Each piece has been inspired in some way by an artist, without sacrificing the brand’s DNA. A dress and an oversized laminated white puffer are created in brushstrokes inspired by Lucian Freud. Sculptor Jack Whitten’s mirror mosaic pieces shape a jacket and stretch knit skirt with broken mirrors. A leather cigarette case trimming the skirt of a ball gown is an homage to Sarah Lucas.

The deep blue color covers a multitude of surfaces. It is a new hue for the brand’s universe but also a nod to Yves Klein and Miró’s children’s illustrations. Elsewhere in the collection there are homages to surrealists such as Dalí – those surreal sunrises that give rise to a multitude of vibrant color gradients -, or Matisse (not his work, but the palm trees of the Regina hotel, now in long-haired black shearling like a fantastic faux coat). Even a white marble Venus has made her way into a winter white melton coat.

That combination of transgression and ingenuity extends to this season’s accessories as well. Giacometti’s monumental sculptures appear as fine gold drops covered in stone. Claude Lalanne’s beloved moldings inspired huge brooches and bracelets. For these, the designer used his own houseplants: “He would cut a leaf and cast it in metal, imposing some of the faces of our studio craftsmen inside.”

After a season where everything was somewhat concise and sober, Daniel Roseberry replaces his limiting beliefs with the power of instinct. The designer gives us a collection that ventures, explores and dares. By looking at reality from a new angle, perhaps more primitive and purer, we can then see new creative possibilities. Because dressing, decorating and, above all, creating is as primitive as any instinct we have.