We analyse the costumes for ‘Parthenope’ designed by Vaccarello for Saint Laurent

In Paolo Sorrentino’s universe, every visual element becomes an essential narrative component. Fashion, in his work, is never a trivial accessory; it is the very extension of the characters, a form of communication that transcends words and articulates the deepest emotions. With Parthenope, the Italian director reaches new heights in his exploration of costume, thanks to the collaboration with Anthony Vaccarello, who, at the helm of Saint Laurent, offers a wardrobe that not only accompanies the plot, but redefines it.

An epic portrait of Parthenope’s life, the film traces from the exuberant youth of the protagonist in the 1950s to the complex reality of contemporary Naples. Throughout the decades, this city, marked by its grandiose history and its torn present, serves as a mirror for a woman going through passions, betrayals and a constant struggle for freedom. In this process, the costumes designed by Vaccarello are not merely decorative; they are the gateway to the character’s psychology and the soul of Naples.

Fashion as a reflection of the times: Saint Laurent and the cinema

Yves Saint Laurent, the designer to whom Vaccarello continues to pay tribute, understood early on that fashion should not only dress bodies, but tell stories. His legacy in cinema, nurtured by his collaboration with great actresses such as Catherine Deneuve, cemented an inseparable union between these two artistic languages. The creation of Saint Laurent Productions in 2015, a platform dedicated to fusing fashion and film, marked a new era in which fashion and film not only coexist, but feed back organically, giving rise to an aesthetic symbiosis that elevates both worlds.

In Parthenope, this legacy is extended in all its splendour. Vaccarello, who has been the natural successor to that vision, has achieved a perfect alchemy with Sorrentino, creating a wardrobe that not only marks the passage of time of the protagonist, but also speaks of her inner conflict and of the city itself, which is presented as a living being, both fascinating and heartbreaking.

Parthenope’s visual journey: fashion as emotional narrative

Parthenope’s story unfolds through the changes in her wardrobe, which, like her, undergoes radical transformations. At the beginning of the film, Parthenope’s wardrobe reflects the exuberance and freedom of a youth born in the effervescence of the 1960s. Silver dresses and tight-fitting bikinis in vibrant colours capture a sense of carefree, passionate zest for life. They are garments that not only stand out for their aesthetics, but communicate the rebelliousness of a young woman ready to conquer the world without restraint.

As the film progresses and Parthenope moves into university and adulthood, the wardrobe becomes more sober and structured, reflecting not only the personal evolution of the protagonist, but also the arrival of introspection and the search for balance. The high-waisted trousers and masculine jackets not only mark a transition in fashion, but also symbolise a shift in the identity of the protagonist, who, although more reserved, continues to face the dilemmas of a woman caught between freedom and social expectations.

However, although Parthenope’s style softens and becomes more classical, the city of Naples remains a key character in the plot, and its duality is reflected in every item of clothing. Naples, a city that oscillates between sublime beauty and everyday brutality, seems to permeate the protagonist’s attire. Parthenope’s fashion speaks of these contrasts: the opulence of evening dresses, the toughness of men’s jackets, the luxurious fabrics and sharp cuts become a reflection of the city itself: contradictory, vibrant and torn.

Empowerment and vulnerability

A key moment of the costumes in Parthenope is the appearance of Parthenope in a dinner jacket, one of Yves Saint Laurent’s most representative pieces. This garment, which the designer enshrined in 1966. Originally a men’s garment, the women’s dinner jacket became a symbol of power, autonomy and transgression, but also of vulnerability. The scene in which Parthenope wears this garment not only highlights the strength of her figure, but also illustrates her constant inner struggle, her desire for independence and the fragility that underlies this quest for freedom.

The dinner jacket is therefore much more than an article of clothing: it is a visual metaphor for Parthenope’s inner struggle. It is an act of empowerment, but also of vulnerability, revealing the fragility of someone who, beneath the appearance of strength, is scarred by the scars of her own decisions and the battle against imposed expectations.

The silk dress: A metaphor for time

One of the most poetic moments in the wardrobe is when Parthenope wraps herself in an ivory silk dress, whose ethereal delicacy almost transforms her into a spectre, caught between the memories of a past she can never leave behind. This dress, soft and luminous, acts as a visual metaphor for fading time, for a present overshadowed by the past. The protagonist seems trapped in a constant struggle between memory and oblivion, between what was and what is yet to come.

Throughout the film, the changes in Parthenope’s wardrobe not only reflect her personal growth but also her relationship with the passage of time. Through Vaccarello’s garments, Sorrentino captures the feeling of a life moving relentlessly forward, a journey marked by melancholy and the constant battle for identity.

A tribute to Yves Saint Laurent and the legacy of fashion in cinema

The influence of Yves Saint Laurent is not only still felt in fashion but also in contemporary cinema. The creation of Saint Laurent Productions is a reflection of the designer’s vision, as he always understood that fashion and film should merge to create something greater than the sum of its parts. This division of the maison seeks to solidify that union, bringing the aesthetics of Saint Laurent to the big screen in an organic way, with the same level of detail and care dedicated to the creation of his collections.

The exhibition dedicated to Parthenope’s wardrobe in Rome is a tribute to this vision. It not only offers a glimpse into the creative process behind Vaccarello’s garments but also celebrates the legacy of Yves Saint Laurent, whose influence remains a beacon in both fashion and cinema. In it, fashion ceases to be merely an accessory and becomes an extension of cinematic art—a tool for storytelling, for capturing emotions, and for redrawing the complexity of the human condition.

In this sense, Parthenope’s wardrobe is not just a collection of clothes; it is an essential narrative tool. Through the collaboration between Sorrentino and Vaccarello, fashion becomes an extension of the story, a way of exploring human emotions and capturing the essence of Naples—a city defined by contradiction and desire. Each garment, every detail in the wardrobe, contributes to the creation of a unique visual universe that redefines the relationship between fashion and cinema, and which, like the finest works of art, endures long after the film has ended.