KM by LANGE is the fashion studio creatively directed by Ukrainian designer Kati Lanhe, focused on creating sustainable collections made by women for women between Kiev and Barcelona: two scenarios and cultures from which she draws to develop her own ethical and aesthetic universe.
The KM brand dazzles on the scene by diluting genres and updating archetypes of contemporary clothing. A concept that began to fade in the 90s, and now recovers through its new collection entitled “ZEMLIA“: an ode to the Ukrainian land and the liberation of its women.
The new proposal of the brand installed in slow fashion displays a constellation of pieces made with natural fabrics that pay tribute to Ukrainian cities and regions. A tribute to its origins, and to a world built on an illusion of freedom in which now seeps the hostility of war.
We talked to Kati Lanhe about “ZEMLIA” and its presentation for the 080 Barcelona catwalk, which will be activated on April 6 at 7pm in the form of a visual poem: a hybrid between a fashion film and physical performance interpreted on the artistic landscape of the MACBA.
Highxtar (H) – The collection that you will present on the 080 Barcelona catwalk is entitled “Zemlia” (Ukrainian for “land”), and is materialized as a love letter to your country of origin. How have you managed to balance the love and passion of creation with the horror and hostility of war?
Kati Lanhe (KL) – My collections are always inspired by my homeland and my roots. This last collection in particular, is inspired by the black and white silent film Zemlia (“land” in Ukrainian) made by Ukrainian film director O. Dovzhenko in 1930. It is a very deep film with a figurative sense that encompasses many concepts such as freedom, earth, struggle, nature, the figure of women, religion and death.
Each model in the collection is named after a city or region of Ukraine. I believe that in the moment we are living in, this collection has even more relevance and is one more instrument to communicate and transmit to the world everything that is happening. It is an ode to Ukraine and its wonderful people.
H – Putting the focus on the collection itself, what will we see sprouting and blossoming from that land where “everything begins and everything culminates, and transitions into something new”, as you mention on your Instagram profile?
KL – The collection is made of natural fabrics: cotton, linens, wools, hemp, and silks. We work the concept of “no color” only with the monochrome range: off-white, black, cream, navy blue… And now unfortunately we live in this same era of “no color”. Our eyes have returned to see the images that our visual memory had recorded in black and white: the wars of our ancestors, the warriors of old films and documentary films.
“The Earth” is what gives us life and what gathers it, it is the heart of the universe and now as never before we are feeling it. Everything is cyclical and from black we will go back to white, from war we will go to peace and this is seen very well in my collection.
H – “Zemlia” is a kind of nineties reset in which genres are diluted in the same sartorial concept that seems to be structured in an architectural way. What is it about that era that inspired you to revisit it under a new approach?
KL – I think everything points to my childhood. My mother never went shopping for clothes, she always had her creative friends who were pattern makers and seamstresses who would get together for coffee and come up with designs and accessories that were true works of art. They never looked at anyone else; each design was unique and exclusive, carefully custom-made for each person. They did it week after week, it was an explosion of art and creativity. I think this had a big impact on me.
Now I see it as a luxury, but at that time it seemed normal to me. I get a lot of inspiration from this time, the 90’s, when the boundaries between masculine and feminine are blurred and women start to wear suits, ties and feel equally beautiful wearing a feminine dress or a completely masculine look.
H – You will merge your proposal in a digital format with the physical action of creative performance. Could you tell us in advance what this performative act will consist of and its joint meaning?
KL – We have made a performance as an ode to the Ukrainian land. Several women artists have joined us to support this cause. The performance will start with the verse of a Ukrainian poet Sehiy Zhadan. Maria Baños, violinist and co-founder of Muses of Now, has composed a piece inspired by Ukraine and the hard time we are living now.
Corrie Bain, the famous ceramist from the UK based in Barcelona has created her clay works live using a North Korean technique to paint them and represent the concept of the earth.
The catwalk is opened by a Ukrainian model from Kyiv, Samy and closed by another model from Chernigiv, Tanya Ruban with her young daughter, Maya.
Anouk Nitsche and Bela Adler were the photographers who documented the event. It has been a multidisciplinary project of several women, and after the presentation of our performance, we are planning to make an auction of artworks of all these artists to raise more funds to support the victims of the war in Ukraine.
H – KM By LANGE moves between two scenarios, Barcelona and Kiev. What is it that attracts you most about their cultures, which we might see represented in your pieces?
KL – Barcelona for me is an ideal refuge to create, think and pose. I am very much in love with this city, its streets, its architecture and culture, its artists and the spirit of the people… Kyiv for me is a stage to realize everything, a living, very active city that never sleeps and has a very own identity. There is an incredible cultural explosion scene right now, I never end up discovering new projects and artists that inspire me a lot. I think my pieces have a stamp of these two places. The real beauty lies in the mix.
H – You transcend the aesthetic to connect with the ethical and emotional through solidarity projects and collections that liberate and empower contemporary women. Could fashion now more than ever be a political tool? What is its true meaning for you?
KL – I personally perceive fashion as an art form. For me, it is a tool of expression and communication that is on the same level as cinema, music or literature. I don’t believe in trends or in the concept of “passing fashions”. Works of art do not go out of fashion and for me, fashion is something more stable and timeless, and I always try to reflect that in my designs.
And yes, right now fashion can not only be a political tool but it should be, simply to reach that segment of people who only move for fashion. We are living in a time of many radical changes: coronavirus, climate change, wars and immigration, the “genderless” trend… We are redesigning the world and fashion will adapt to the latest developments and will mutate. Fashion is a voice and we must use it to improve the world.
H – You work through a sorority network with a team of 8 Ukrainian seamstresses who build these constellations of sustainable and timeless garments. How do you develop the design process and what references do you use to create?
KL – KM by LANGE is a women’s project about women. We are very supportive of craftsmanship, old sewing techniques, embroidery, hand weaving, hand pleating or handmade jewelry. We even make the buttons completely handmade from ceramic or wood. We are also very supportive of women. For this reason, most of the women in our workshops are over 60 years old, as we believe that this group is very vulnerable from a labor point of view.
Most of the designs are made by me, but I also rely a lot on our main pattern designer Elena and other members of the team. I don’t like to give titles, I just think that KM by LANGE is a project created by many women who are behind it, without them it would be impossible. The inspirations always come from a concept or an idea: it can be a city, a movie, a tradition or a particular artist. We create a mood board, we try to get everyone to soak in the concept, and from there we start to draw and create, but we all have the same focus.
H – In this sense, with sustainability at the heart of your brand, relying on European suppliers, advocating craftsmanship and using natural fabrics, you are making a statement of intent against capitalist overproduction. Do you think that the slow philosophy of “buy less, buy better” that you profess will really permeate the collective imagination and will eventually put an end to fast fashion?
KL – I am hopeful that this will be the case, but it is a slow process. This trend will be implemented gradually. It is closely linked to the political and economic situation of each country.
As I mentioned before, the world is changing and so are our values and consumption needs. We will buy less, but we will consume better… Fast fashion will exist but perhaps its market share will decrease. But the most important thing is to start the change from oneself… After all, we are all in the same boat.
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