This season, Balmain opted for an intimate show that evoked Parisian sophistication and glamour, but also the image of haute couture of yesteryear, anchored in the world’s vision of Paris. Now, Olivier Rousteing has launched the campaign for the FW23 collection, which is inspired by the “New French Style” introduced by Pierre Balmain in 1945.
When Rousteing was interviewed for his first job at Balmain, he was told that the house was a “Sleeping Giant”. For the brand’s latest collection and campaign, the visionary was inspired by the Maison’s first garments for this season. With an elegant and sophisticated style, the collection demonstrates that “The days of Balmain’s ‘Sleeping Giant’ are officially over”.
Oliver Rousteing quoted Pierre Balmain, the French fashion designer who founded Balmain: “Le style que l’on ressuscite doit être adapté au présent”, which translates as “a resurrected style must be adapted to the present”. Here, Olivier Rousteing pushes the evolution of fashion while referencing Pierre’s rich heritage in the fashion world with his sophisticated and timeless designs.
Rousteing incorporates Pierre Balmain’s decades-old graphic twists into both the collection and campaign. His hypnotic maze pattern from the 1970s and the Versailles marble squares from the 1980s. The creative director returns in this way to pay homage to the founder of the house who, according to him, was also noted for his graphic talent.
The designer uses the words of Ginette Spanier, Balmain’s Dirtora from 1947 to 1976, as a guide: “If a seam is not quite right, it’s a matter of life and death”. The quote is a reference to the couture traditions of Paris, which greatly influenced Pierre Balmain’s post-war collections. Today, Rousteing shares this “obsession” with the brand’s founder.
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