When the news came that this season Y/Project was canceling its Paris show scheduled for March 3, all of us who regularly go to the French capital for fashion week were a bit disappointed in a way. In the end, the Glenn Martens show is one of the must-see events on the calendar and not having the opportunity to see his new pieces up close is something that weighs heavily, especially if we take into account the last two seasons, which were apotheosically good. Although the cancellation of the fashion show was a strategic decision of the brand to face the “uncertain times”, Glenn Martens is crowned again, even in lookbook format.
Because yes, the media impact of the aforementioned lookbook has been inescapable. But contrary to what you might think when you read the word, the photo series, along with the promotional video, make up “a truly special project for the team and the brand, as the Y/Project Fall Winter 2024 collection commemorates Glenn’s 10 years as the brand’s creative director.” By Arnaud Lajeunie, the photographic series features all of Martens’ fellow travelers in his career. All that Stardom has traded its frontrow seat for a starring role as models in the collection. Wearing it, we can see artists, Ye, Charli XCX, Tyga, models Irina Shayk, Kim Peers and Natasha Poly; renowned editors Camille B Waddington, Olivier Zham and Mel Ottenberg, and even Martens’ right-hand woman Ursina Gysi herself, or his own father.
The new collection has everything that Martens’ work is world-renowned for and makes Y/Project a competitive brand in the market. There are voluminous jeans that roll up, button up and twist into the human figure; sheepskin coats, leather, or giving the appearance of quilt are intermingled with flannels, shirts and lumberjack dresses, close-fitting cotton pieces or with the brand’s identity graphics, such as trompe l’oeil dresses It is all about playing with textures, volumes and transparencies.
But footwear also takes center stage in this collection. In addition to the iconic multiform button-down boots, Y/Project debuts a collaboration with Salomon on the Speedcross 3. The silhouette has everything that defines the Martens aesthetic; it adopts a crinkled construction in gray and black colorways.
Y/PROJECT is anything but ordinary fashion, and that’s something Glenn Martens, since taking over as creative director at the brand, has been very clear about. By experimenting and constantly challenging tradition to create impact, the designer has made the brand a standard bearer for cutting-edge fashion. Celebrating diversity in all its forms, the pieces are the perfect choice for both everyday and runway wear.
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