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HELIOT EMIL, by the Juul brothers, presents its latest show in Paris with a focus on form and function. Under the name “Primal Substance”, with this collection the brand takes the title of master of utilitarian clothing.

The new SS23 season is nothing less than the reaffirmation of the brand codes that have led Heliot Emil to be what it is today: a brand that, although it is a very recent creation, can perfectly compete with others that occupy the Paris calendar.

Inspired by Bill Viola’s Martyrs Composite artwork, the guys at Heliot Emil have experimented with technology and physics to create unforgettable pieces for our retina. If last season they surprised us with fabrics that remind us of liquid metal, the new collection offers us heat-reactive fabrics, waterproofness and more polished and better finished design details. The brand’s logo can be seen on the fabric and as a metal detail, adorning many pieces in the collection. The letters H and E are also introduced on the buckles of footwear, jackets and other accessories.

In addition to textile experimentation, Heliot Emil has partnered with Alpinestars to create Formula One-inspired looks. This creative union has resulted in an ingenious and truly powerful collaboration. Parts of motocross boots, for example, have been used to create a bra, and a similar technique was used to create volumes on the sleeves of a mini-dress.

And the surprises continue. For the show, Heliot Emil(@heliot_emil) made his debut in the world of scents with “DAWN 2.0”. The perfume was created in collaboration with Stockholm-based Unifrom. Each show attendee received a bottle of this scent, wrapped in a leather and metal belt sheath.

The bet is ambitious, yes, but it is very strong. For yet another season, Heliot Emil has shown outstanding mastery in combining elements of the highest functionality with suits or ball gowns. It looks like we have industrial elegance for a while.