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After presenting his latest collection for his eponymous label in London, Jonathan Anderson returns to Milan with bold new designs, affirming that there is no need to be afraid of subversion.

Digging into his childhood memories and delving into the concept of simplicity, Anderson has found the inspiration for his FW23 collection. Through conceptual looks and, this time, less surreal than usual, the designer conquered the Milan catwalk thanks to his unbridled creativity.

He revived his iconic ruffled shorts from the FW13 collection and updated them in leather and belts with padlocks. The coats also stood out, especially the feathered Big Bird, the black double-breasted coat and the shiny brown leather coat with large V-shaped lapels.

Like Prada, JW Anderson stripped away the unnecessary, presenting simple but not basic looks. Lunar New Year was present in the knitted briefs while the highlight was when the collaboration with Wellipets burst forth in the form of clogs and a revamped version of the Pigeon Clutch Bag.

In Anderson‘s own words: “It’s a very raw mood. That’s what I wanted for this collection. The jumper is the jumper, the trousers are the trousers, the jacket is the jacket. There’s no kind of over-explanation in the look. I liked the idea of looking for subversion. Especially in London, especially in the ’70s and ’80s, and looking at great masters like Vivienne Westwood…. I think we shouldn’t be afraid of subversion. I think it’s more about not being ashamed, about taking ownership. Working in fashion is very scary for us”.

And speaking of Milano Fashion WeekHave you seen the latest from Miuccia and Simons for Prada?