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Rick Owens’ SS20 collection, the best to date, takes us into a dark and futuristic fairy tale whose end has unfortunately not been happy even for the designer himself.
Rick Owens SS20
The truth is, this is Rick Owens‘ most powerful show. Visually, the collection boasts an overwhelming magnetism that leaves us no choice but to applaud like mad. The models parade dressed as samurai of the year 3000 between a rain of bubbles and an audience gaping.
The collection reminds us of Marie Antoinette, but also of an alien civilization based on Mars: an alternative Victorian era, with Aztec and Mexican heritage and reminiscences of science fiction, where the past has not yet been and the future is where we come from. This tribute is not casual. “I never really explored my Mexicanness, but the debate over a border wall made me more aware of who I would separate from”, says the designer.
Metal hats topped the collection, creating the appearance of a uniformed army parading down the catwalk. The structured silhouettes propitiated this aura, emanating a sense of power, control and authoritarianism. The color palette tended towards the dark ones with black as the protagonist, but we have also seen sequins, prints and other pieces that distill mysticism and fantasy and add color, a chromatic combination that we did not expect.
Steal or inspiration?
With his new bet, Rick Owens has disassociated himself from urban aesthetics and has risen to a more conceptual vibes and much more daring. He has taken risks and won. But his particular tale has not had a happy ending.
The looks are undoubtedly inspired by the iconic drag Salvia (@salvjiia), with whom he had already worked a few months ago. But it seems that the designer has not respected the agreement they had together. Last night Salvia published a post in Instagram telling what happened in the show: “Rick Owens decided to send replicas of me (…), without my knowledge, involvement or payment”. She says. “Rick is not punk, not progressive, not futuristic, he is selfish and mediocre”.
The designer has not yet spoken, but the controversy is already served and, unfortunately, in his show begins to highlight more this stain by its apparent ingratitude than the masterfulness of the collection. You didn’t need to steal anything, Rick; with a third of the talent you’ve shown SS20 we had enough. And now, however, we find it unacceptable.