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The show and collection with which Alexander McQueen and its current creative director Sarah Burton returned to the runways of London after the pandemic will be remembered forever, partly because of the place chosen and the collection designed by Sarah, but wait until you see the proposal with which the luxury brand has returned to New York, because since the incredible rains that fell during the last show held there, there hasn’t been another one.

The feeling and the bond that both Lee Alexander (founder of the firm) and Sarah Burton have with the city of skyscrapers is very similar, as Burton accompanied Lee on all his trips to the United States and was present at the two fashion shows held there. This latest one took place at the Brooklyn warehouse, where industrial style and nature played an important role, especially the latter, as the entire set of the show was set in nature. There were gigantic mounds of earth that gave off a peaty smell, through which the models paraded, accompanied by a soundtrack with sounds of birds and insects.

And although it may seem a little unbelievable, the whole environment related to trees, the earth and, in particular, mushrooms is what really inspired Sarah to design her autumn/winter 22 collection. Who would have thought that mushrooms would inspire the world of fashion? You can see that anything is possible, just look at the pair of dresses embroidered with mushrooms whose bright colours were taken from real life. The mushroom mycelia were depicted in the form of silk fringes. The jumpers were also superb, as were the tailoring garments, which were characteristic of the brand and were carefully tailored down to the smallest detail. These were revisited and reimagined to the nth degree, as we saw, some with psychedelic prints that looked like graffiti-like sprite paint (inspired by Mcqueen’s Number 13 archive collection) and a more elegant version with the back embroidered with crystals and replacing the shirt with a sequined bandeau top.

After seeing Sarah Burton’s latest collections for Alexander McQueen, we can say that she is the best successor that Lee Alexander has ever had.

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