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The gardens of the Lycée Victor Duruy were the perfect setting to reaffirm the argument that Y/Project is once again the sensation of Paris Fashion Week (PFW). Glenn Martens, designer and founder of the firm, gave his best and more of himself, offering those present large doses of design, avant-garde and talent.

We said he gave his best, didn’t we? That’s true. But what we haven’t said is that the Belgian presented his Spring/Summer 23 collection with a clear objective. What? To excite all his followers and fans. This has become the great ambition of the creator, who has once again offered, as in every season, reinvented silhouettes full of intrigue.

The illusion and ambition of Martens and the play between the real and the fake are reflected above all in the various details of the garments, such as the collars and belts (scanned and printed on the silhouettes), in the sweatshirts and T-shirts whose bottoms give the effect of high-waisted jeans or in the trompe l’oeil pieces, which incidentally appear as the protagonists of the second instalment of the collaboration with the iconic French fashion house Jean Paul Gaultier, in which the DNA of both firms is fused.

Denim was another of the features that most marked Glenn’s proposal. When we saw the number of looks that were based on this fabric, the first thing we asked ourselves was: Is G.M. the new king of denim? Everything points to yes, or if not, at least the category of prince has already been more than earned, because he has amply demonstrated his mastery when it comes to using this type of fabric, used in a multitude of ways such as: trompe l’oeil in a silk scarf, in knitwear combined with patchwork, in jacqueron – a rectangle of leather that covers the right side –, in T-shirts or even in accessories.

And from denim we move on and drastically change register to Martens’ more elegant vision. Here the sleek/mysterious Y/Project silhouettes, jackets cut in detachable panels and long dresses burst through with success. Our favourite? The look that closed the show with a voluminous head and neckline.

Near the neck, there are also the golden earrings in the shape of a hand sticking out a finger, which, as you can imagine, promise to become the it-product of the season and the star of the street style of the next fashion week editions; as well as the transparent plastic rain boots made in collaboration with Melissa or the bags with wire handles that are shocking due to the combination of the pink colour that exudes innocence and the threads that can be twisted. This combination of elements gives rise to a very contemporary mischievousness.

Y/Project has changed the rules of the game and made it clear (again) at this latest edition of Paris Fashion Week (PFW). If you haven’t had a chance to see the Spring/Summer 23 collection yet, do us a favour and check it out because it’s a sight to behold.

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