READ IN: Español
After Burberry postponed its London Fashion Week show following the death of the Queen, the brand has finally presented its Spring/Summer collection between Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks. A show that will go down in history, not only for the looks, but also because rumours are circulating that this season could be the last with Riccardo Tisci.
Hosted in a warehouse in Bermondsey, the show began in complete silence before soprano Nadine Sierra burst in with the London Contemporary Orchestra to mark the end. Kanye West, Stormzy, Headie One, Anna Wintour, Gillian Anderson, Edward Enninful, Pa Salieu, Luka Sabbat and many others took to the frontrow at the show.
“In summer, in Britain, the beach is a place of democracy, of community,” Riccardo wrote. “People from all cultures come together to enjoy the simplest pleasures. Indeed, anyone who has ever visited a British seaside town will know that class divisions break down here; as people from all walks of life lay their towels side by side.”
The collection mixes contradictory sensibilities of ‘Britishness’ through clothing: youth and experience, the intimate and the public, the raw versus the refined. The temperamental British climate and, in turn, the temperament of the British people, inspire an approach that celebrates notions of layering, both concealing and revealing the body.
The show has represented what British style is for Tisci: elegance, sophistication, but at the same time, sexuality. Gothic style arrives this season and he introduces it in a subtle way. He also incorporates swimwear into every look. From swimsuit-like straps, to swim goggles, flip-flops, fishnets and beach hats.
Ruched negligee dresses, tailoring, denim and plenty of Burberry trench coat were also present for SS23. Layering was a key focus, perfectly representing British weather-influenced fashion. Transparencies and lingerie styling also made an appearance. A highlight was the trousers that came with a very high rise.