“Bottega Veneta is essentially pragmatic because it is a leather goods brand. Because bags are its distinctive element, always in constant evolution; craftsmanship in motion is the main idea behind its identity. It is style over fashion in its temporality. It is all part of its silent power.” Matthiew Blazy.
What makes Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta? In creative director Matthieu Blazy‘s debut collection, one senses a return to a fundamental question about the meaning of the brand: building on the foundations of the past to develop its present and imagine the future.
The creator and the person wearing the garment explore this story that sustains the garments, in an exchange that implies a sense of movement and emotion. Avoiding the disposable and fleeing from pure spectacle. The end result is the private pleasure of “silent power”; something perceptible with the senses rather than at first sight. There is an encounter between extravagance and utility; the everyday permeates the collection through sublime techniques and materials. Elements that can only be achieved thanks to the traditional craftsmanship of the experts in Italian workshops.
Simultaneously and playfully, everything is given a lightness of touch through the cinematic inspiration of the characters who bring to the tradition a sense of subversion, movement, sensuality and liveliness: where they come from and where they are going.
From Italian explosiveness for everyday wear through photorealistic denim (but which is actually a strategically crafted supple leather fabric) and the Kalimero shoulder bag (each bag is a genius of craftsmanship, made from a single piece of hand-stitched, interlocking nubuck, to women who seem to be wearing their lover’s shirt with an undeniable business touch (again made of nubuck, this time worked to give the look of a traditional shirt) paired with tall, close-fitting boots with the iconic visible intreccio, (also structured from a single piece of leather); to men and women wearing supposedly unstructured suits with a sharper, sharper silhouette (inspired by Umberto Boccioni‘s 1913 sculpture Unique Forms of Continuity in Space, which brings the Italian Futurist movement to the present through the volumes achieved by skating and sewing techniques).
Rigorous tailoring, all conceived to give the sensation of lightness, fullness, movement and texture. Ranging from materials such as innovative wool flannels or colourful herringbone prints; to pieces that combine three different prints and structure them around the body; or new interpretations of Leavers lace fabric, still made on 18th century looms and overlaid with modern synthetic jumpers for the 21st century. The knitwear consciously embraces idiosyncrasy, as a reminder of the endearing garments of childhood and their uniqueness.
At times, this cast of characters also sported pillow-shaped leather clutches (and guests at the fashion show sat on them and had the opportunity to take them with them). Even the intreccio boxes, which are more akin to a decorative item, can be fastened. The question here is not why, but why not? Individual choices become important as each person decides how to move and live in their clothing and how they tell their own story through these pieces, which come to life through their creator. And this is perhaps what defines Bottega Veneta and its essence: an emotional investment for everyday objects, in every sense of the word.
And speaking of Milan Fashion Week… Have you seen the latest Versace show?
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