1017 ALYX 9SM FW23: technical avant-garde & traditional savoir faire

Matthew Williams has given us an appointment at Spazio Maiochi to witness the new 1017 ALYX 9SM FW23 collection, in which he collaborates both in form and content with the American artist Mark Flood.

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In a set created by Mark Flood especially for the occasion, the new Alyx has incurred in technical clothing and printed pieces with iconic works of the artist. Matthew has shed the rigid shapes, which he reserves for Givenchy, and has dressed the Alyx man comfortably: voila the all-terrain man.

Ever since Matthew Williams created Alyx, the aim has always been to merge technical avant-garde with traditional savoir faire. Continuing this premise, some garments have been dyed, washed, printed and burned and then meticulously hand-worn by Italian craftsmen. Other pieces employ techniques that create small random distressing zones on the garment that will cause it to transform with wear, progressively revealing the layers underneath. The studs we see on scarves, boots and tailoring garments have also been hand-applied by Italian craftsmen.

The undisputed stars of this 1017 ALYX 9SM season have been the bags and footwear. They appear in all over prints as part of the collaboration with Mark Flood. In the case of the two new bags, we can see how Matthew is ditching his iconic zipper to introduce new hardware to the brand. The Payton, a unisex model, comes in smooth, textured, hand-painted leather in a small but practical format. The women’s Raya also incorporates new Alyx hardware and comes in a range of vegan leather options.

The evolution of footwear in the Alyx proposal has been another pillar of the collection. The brand presents a new thick sole that has been integrated in all the shoes of the proposal. A thick sole but which, thanks to technical innovation, is light enough to be able to wear the shoes for hours.

The Alyx man has left a little space for the female figure. The 5 women’s looks seen on the runway are just a preview of the upcoming women’s collection. The brand’s women’s series will be unveiled in February through a lookbook, says Matthew Williams.