Inside the Dion Lee AW23 clubber scene

It fell on Friday night, and in the middle of a Manhattan loft, Dion Lee unfurled his proposal for AW23 titled ‘Second Skin’. A collection in the form of a stylistic and reptilian exploration within the architectural and sculptural forms of the Australian cult brand.

Citing the following references: “snake, snake, scale, scale, reptile, molt, unraveling, ouroboros, etc.,” began this new episode starring the reference creative director of the avant-garde scene, through diamond hardware with scale eyelets or reptile skins embossed on leather boots and XXL accessories. Japanese shibori dye took on a serpentiform look here, while textured scale prints offered dimension to pieces such as tops or collared coats.

THE ACT OF NUDITY

The night is dressed by Dion Lee. A statment that can be reflected in this ode to nightlife or clubber culture in its freest and most experimental version. One in which he plays with the act of dressing and undressing, or displaying the skin and covering it with reptile textures or snakeskin scales.

In sync with that wild spirit, there were graphic crocodile pieces in white, bubblegum pink or black on maxi and mini skirts, zippered jackets or mesh bodysuits with built-in gloves.

Asymmetries, transparencies and deconstruction collided again in this collection in which transparent and sensual dresses predominate, as well as silhouettes that wrap the bodies as if they were a second skin. On the other hand, the basic pieces are deconstructed imitating that process of moulting with which Lee explores new sartorial techniques, as we can also see reflected in the wear of denim.

All those transparencies or uncovered areas of the body were covered with an outerwear proposal that includes translucent puffers, vinyl bubble jackets, angular shearling mini jackets or leather jackets marked by the designer’s distinctive tailoring. Outerwear then received priority, as did opaque or cropped sweaters as corsets combined with low-waisted pants.

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The show came to an end, but the party continued in The Standard’s Boom Boom Room: a club where Dion Lee finished closing this aesthetic and conceptual circle with which he elevates the brand to a new status.