When it was announced that Anonymous Club would be making its official runway debut during this season’s Berlin Fashion Week, Shayne Oliver, its director, didn’t give many details about what was in store.
Shayne Oliver, who left his own brand HBA in 2021 to embark on new projects such as As Seen by Shayne Oliver (A.S.S.O) or his high-end RTW, has also been the creative brain behind labels like Helmut Lang and the culprit behind Playboy Carti’s most recognizable looks. But undoubtedly, where the creative has been able to break the rules with all the freedom in the world has been in Anonymous Club. With only one debut collection and the occasional collaboration -Shayne Oliver x UGG-, the group’s innovation division is a true laboratory for Oliver; a place where experimentation, collaboration with other artists and the transgression of creative limits are encouraged.
Hood by Air is a thing of the past, but the Shayne Oliver Group, a hope for the community. Now, to honor his roots, Oliver recalls his former self, to come out with an even more authentic message. He has spent much of his life in Berlin, where he has shaped a new chapter. In anonymity, Berlin has become for Shayne a familiar and creative community. And the collection speaks loudly about it.
The journey through Oliver’s particular Berlin scene begins with the humble hoodie, but rises to new heights of innovation and provocation. Sweatpants, a staple reissued ad nauseam across brands, rise to the collarbones, forming a strapless. Combined with the designer’s iconic hats inspired by “Donnie Darko” or “Gummo,” who knows, the collection fulfills its creator’s clear objective: “The conversion of the status quo that I loved so much into a newer message for me, my friends, my family and my entire community.”
The gray, and white, embossed tracksuits with the house’s distinctive logo come in a variety of styles, from complete ensembles to shredded garments. Butcher’s aprons add a sense of industrial rawness to the proposal, reminding us of Oliver’s ability to defy the norm and create something truly unique. But the most striking feature of the collection are the muscular prosthetic limbs that some models, such as Stefano Pilati, sport on their legs. A celebration of strength, masked or not, that keeps us going.
By returning to his roots and elevating them to the tenth power, Shayne Oliver continues to challenge the norms and redefine what it means to be truly revolutionary in the fashion industry. Anonymous Club’s runway debut is a new beginning, a path chosen from honesty.
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