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No doubt that in this complex industry, Kim Jones is its pharaoh, the one leading the rest, the absolute referent of a generation that changed fashion as a concept and creative expression. His last exhibition was sublime, delicious and elevated like no other.
Each of the pieces that walked the runway yesterday is worth to be analyzed in detail and is pure delight. The romanticism, the references to working class garment fused with elegant gloves for an opera night, the important presence of paisley and pinstripe, the stunning introduction of his flat caps, the mastery of the sartorial pieces or the leather ones and, over all, the deep and beautiful homage to the stylist and jewelry designer Judy Blame, who passed away a couple of years ago and is one of Kim Jones’ referents. All those pendants, pins and charms were the best celebration of these key figure in LGBTQ+ London culture.
Dior Men was filled with outstanding creations, between which highlights tha one that closed the sow. A coat embroidered with metallic feathers, inspired by a Christian Dior haute couture design, is one of the most ambitious creations the British designer has ever made.
Matthew M Williams brought as usual his unique buckles and belts that provided that technic and almost military appeal to a collection of refined and historic pieces that evoke the amazing Dior 50s and its humongous haute couture archive. Gender transgression is becoming more and more common everyday and the designers are playing with that duality in order to create pieces traditionally thought for women and men being worn by the other. In this last proposal from the former LV Creative Director, we can see how he’s breaking all the barriers between social strata, developing a full range of references to all, democratizing his imaginary.
Besides the famous “rollercoaster buckle” from Alyx’s founder, in the accessories section we enjoy the presence of the already popular “oblique” from CD, drawing a continuist line.
Maxi bags, saddles, flat zipped caps, scout-like backpacks, clutches, Chelsea boots, shopping bags, travel bags, new versions of his anticipated B23 and a full selection of accessories and footwear that are already making everyone their mouths water.
The unstoppable rise of the Hammersmith designer is being reflected in every collection he drops. No matter the firm counting on with his creativity and hard work, Kim Jones (@mrkimjones) has reinvented the concept of excellence, has redesigned the industry standards and is challenging for real his colleagues on their effort to keep it up with his trail.