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Autor: Alegría Olmeda (@alegriaolmeda) | In an industry that loves tradition, Martine Rose has always been against the rules. The British streetwear designer from London is one of the culprits of the experimental phase that men fashion is experimenting.
10 years of work and experimentation have been necessary for its recognition. The leading designer of independent men’s fashion has managed to take the streetwear to another level, exquisite, I have to say, when the eccentric already begins to being boring.
Of interesting and rare aesthetics in equal parts for men, a short-sleeved t-shirt with a baseball collar, is compatible in the same look with sensible heel shoes and a skinny jean. Why not?
Her emblems of masculinity are uniformity, football and club culture. He has shown his designs as short films, on stages that simulated an interior climbing wall (SS18) and has treated sportswear as if it were haute couture.
I’m sure you remember the Pepa Salazar parade at the San Antón Martín Market. Good. Before leaving her studio in Tottenham, Martine Rose put on a show at the Seven Sisters Market (FW17) where the owners of the fruit, vegetable and other grocery stalls continued their day-to-day lives while the models wore their looks for the improvised catwalk.
But Martine Rose has not wanted to execute her know-how alone, but has wanted to share it with one of the leading figures in one of the top houses in the fashion industry today. Demna Gvasalia, known as the leader of the Vetements, he is also in charge of Balenciaga‘s creative direction, one of the most consolidated haute couture houses that has reinforced its name. Now, Rose works side by side with him as a consultant in her men’s clothing line.
This season, the London designer has joined the Napapijri brand to merge exclusivity with streetwear from the 90s. The Napa capsule by Martin Rose takes iconic garments from the brand and reinvents them with the touch that characterizes the designer.
For next spring, the designer’s express wish: that the ordinary be extraordinary. The Londoner’ invites’ us through her collection SS18 to do a review in our father’s closet and get into the depths of the 90’s where the cycling trousers of Lycra, disproportionately oversized trousers (it is already usual: -) with three waist, waistbags, MTV, skate socks and tailors topped with parkas XXL mixes together finishing the look with a Nike Spirindon sneakers.
Her next conquest? The common man and corporate clothes. Martine Rose, allow me the gall, but we girls need you too; -)