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After a series of runway shows along the coast of northern Italy, Rick Owens returns to the runway at Paris Fashion Week for his new SS22 women’s collection.
The return to his home, the Palais de Tokyo, was as longed for as it was exciting for all his faithful. In the midst of a thick fog that was pouring from the central part of the stage, Michèle Lamy, wife and partner of the designer, is in charge of opening the fashion show. Simultaneously, two hooded figures scatter dried jasmine leaves over the fashion show attendees.
The collection features sculpted silhouettes in abstract skirts and thigh-high Spartan boots with the classic Owens platform. Cotton fabrics overlaid with the finest nylon seem to float in the air like fog, in honor of the collection’s name: Fogachine. Also, sharp shoulder pads and cape-like coats appear in cotton, tulle and silk muslin to expose the complete look underneath. Multicolored mohair fabrics cover the body in layers that flow over the arms and go up to the head like hoods. The brutalist chokers belong to a jewelry collection produced by Goossens.
Rick has not wanted to come back as if nothing happened after the pandemic. You only have to look at his work to appreciate the dilemmas he has with himself about his role as a designer and the contrasts he brings to his vision. But in this homecoming he has been able to bring value to what he always does, making each and every look as Rick Owens as possible.
Rick Owens SS22 has been something cathartic and beautiful to witness, not only on par with Paris Fashion Week but even more importantly, true to himself.