Jun Takahashi reflects on form, proportion and the male body in a very subtle way.
Founded in 1993 in the epicenter of Tokyo punk, Undercover has come a long way since those days, breaking the design norm since its Paris debut in 2002. Today, the brand doesn’t need to raise its voice to be in the spotlight. Just twist a sleeve, displace a zipper or let a shirt hang off its axis, or put a revealing phrase.
Photographed on a saturated, earthy pink ground, the collection puts the focus on the garment: how it rests on the body, how it moves, how it suggests without being forced. Visual tensions are built from volume, not from embellishment. There are no screaming logos or excessive prints: just handwritten phrases, stitched figures and measured patches. It is the aesthetics of “almost not there”, but when you look closely it changes everything.
Oversized shirts, blazers and fluid pants that retain their structure thanks to smart choices of fabric and proportion, mandarin collars and knotted buttons introduce a casual energy. Dress comfortable, yes, but also with intention. New versions of cargo pants also appear, constructed in technical nylon and designed more for movement than for posing.
In short, Undercover’s new collection is a logical response to the fashion-spectacle that today seems to devour everything. So at a time when everything competes to go viral, Jun Takahashi enlightens us with a collection where the message is implicit.
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