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Maison Alaïa held its third fashion show since the official appointment of its new creative director, Pieter Mulier, at its new shop in Paris, on the famous rue Faubourg St. Honoré, which is currently under construction and nearing completion. It was there that the brand’s Spring 23 collection was unveiled.

The industrial and elegant air that prevailed in the location fitted perfectly with Mulier’s third proposal, which he defined as rough and elegant at the same time.

Opening the show were a series of layered bodysuits in almost transparent, stretchy silk in different colours. The first of these successfully burst into the room, with a single nipple piercing in the shape of a pearl drop in trompe l’oeil and highlighting the woman’s figure. Let us recall that this feature became one of the keys to the success of the great Azzedine Alaïa, who interpreted the female body in a way that few others know how.

This concept continues in Pieter’s vision, albeit a little more up to date, as do the looks that were presented. Some of them were striking for the draping or ruching, which Mulier was keen to try out, having not had the opportunity in his previous work at Dior or Calvin Klein, for the pieces of boiled cashmere from which the wrap dresses were made and for offering a new version of black leather perforated almost like paillettes. The same was true of the footwear, specifically the long-haired boots cuffed with huge metal bracelets on cubic lucite heels or the black lacquer stiletto heels in the shape of naked women’s legs reminiscent of those designed by its founder in 1992.

We don’t know how, but Pieter Mulier has managed to make the complex seem spontaneous and to make Alaïa shine again as it did in its day.