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The last three years have uneven the terrain of the fashion week catwalks: we are in front of a cocktail of political, feminist messages (with Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior with her t-shirts “We should all be feminist”), diversity of races and sizes, and a blurred gender barrier that presents the SS19 fashion shows with uncertainty but, above all, excitement.
Each city will fascinate us with its particular charm added to the shock that the fashion industry will receive when this wave of vindictive messages is accentuated. Here are some brief brushstrokes of what we can foresee:
Nueva York (6-14 septEMBER)
The city that brings more news and emotion each season is full of surprises for the SS19, starting with Rihanna. The singer herself, who has lately been in the spotlight for vindicating beauty without aesthetic canons, will present her intimate fashion collection Savage x Fenty. We can only hope for extravagance, savagery and at the same time elegance in real women’s bodies.
VFILES brought us the usual proposal of emerging talents who live together under the same collection. KITH and Versace have made the system crazy and Jeremy has put colour on the catwalk. That’s for now.
Ralph Lauren will be celebrating the 50th anniversary of the firm, which will decorate a part of Central Park with such pomposity that the protagonist will be the same stage and not the collection (although it would not be difficult, because sobriety and classicism weigh too heavily on this brand).
It is expected that the turbulent political situation in the United States will bring us actions like the Balenciaga items imitating Bernie Sanders‘ campaign or the pins with the message “fashion stands with Planned Parenthood“, the pro-abortion organization par excellence distributed by the same organizers of the NFW in 2017.
Londres (14-18 septEMBER)
The city of emerging designers by excellence and that in fashion week will have to share space in the catwalks with the big brands. We don’t know how far the tension will go…
But what will mark a before and after in this edition of the LFW will be the Burberry fashion show. After Christopher Bailey left the post of creative director, a gothic Italian (Riscardo Tisci) has turned the roots of the British house upside down, starting with the change of the legendary logo and creating a monogram alongside Saville. As far as the collection is concerned, we can expect a breakthrough Burberry – as never seen before – and for the first time, free of furs.
MilAno (19- 25 septEMBER)
This week may be the most shocking. In addition to being the capital “girly” – in the words of Eva Al Desnudo -, and the classic fashion shows made in Italy, this time there is a morbus linked to D&G.
Recently Stefano Gabbana has dedicated himself to commenting on the Instagram accounts of some famous people like: “ugly” to Selena Gomez, “cheap” to Chiara Ferragni and “cheap family” to the Kardashian. This has caused the whole cyberspace to attack him, and no doubt people’s response will be reflected on the Milan runway. Will there be a boycott by the other brands or attendees against Dolce & Gabbana?
Paris (24 september – 2 october)
Saint Laurent’s majesty is transferred to Céline – now Celine – by the hand of Hedi Slimane, who left one fashion house to enter as creative director of the other (and reform it, apparently, by removing the accent from the brand’s logo and, in turn at the same time its French identity).
The advance of this internal revolution can only be seen in the bag that Lady Gaga shared in Instagram, with which the French house says goodbye to its iconic tote bag. We will have to wait to see the transformation degree of the next collection.
Finally, what the sneakers will be like next spring will can only be said by Balenciaga with his imminent presentation. Whether we like it or not, the brand led by Denma is one step ahead in this respect.