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In the strangest and most unpredictable year for the fashion industry, Raf Simmons and Miuccia Prada joined forces to give the Italian firm a new direction. The result has awakened reactions of all kinds. It has left us a little bit behind.
The expectations that had been placed in the debut collection of the new Prada by Raf and Miuccia were very high. That two geniuses of their size decided to live together under the same roof is quite unusual, if not unique. The success achieved by the Belgian at the head of Dior, Calvin Klein or Jil Sander, as well as in his own firm, encouraged the Prada heiress to add him to her project.
Yesterday it was revealed what Raf and Miuccia had been working on in the last few months. Presented in streaming by that of the pandemic, a barren and naked space, in which some draped curtains in yellow tone and a hairy carpet floor to match, received the proposals for SS21. The two designers, debutants as a duo, had the romantic detail of selecting for the occasion a group of models who had never walked in fashion week. On each entrance, the name of each one of them appeared on the hanging screens arranged in the space next to the cameras that recorded each moment. A nice memory that will surely help more than one of them to make the leap to this complex platform.
Regarding the designs presented yesterday, mixed feelings. At first glance, it reminded us of Off White’s aesthetics in 2019 and 2020. The cuts of marked geometry, the excess of branding, the prints typical of utilitarianism and even the holes shown in some pieces, were a prominent detail in Virgil’s signature in recent collections.
The outerwear worn by the models clinging to their chests, as well as many of the looks, emulated Miuccia herself. The fluid construction and the patterns chosen are very reminiscent of the essence of Raf Simons. The selection of nylon as the main material is an unmistakable symbol of the Milanese house. The massive presence of its iconic triangular logo and the application of historical patterns and prints rescue that unmistakable Prada identity. The jewelry designed for the occasion also showed pride in its corporate identity.
The footwear proposal brings us endless sharp points, low heels and a striking tongue on the instep, as if it were a sneaker. Gone are the times of monstrous silhouettes and endless platforms.
As for accessories, beyond the jewelry we mentioned, Prada brings us a selection of handbags that will be basic next spring. Its focus on monochrome, clean designs and very recognizable lines smells like victory. In this section, we also highlight the inclusion of built-in backpacks in the garments themselves. And all this to the sound of the production of Richie Hawtin, who put the soundtrack to this premiere.
We have to see how this alliance evolves and which path they decide to take. For the moment, we see a consensus in the contribution of their identities and a commitment to designs of urban inspiration and with a clear ascendancy to the timeless. They have not driven us crazy, but we are confident that their proposals will go in crescendo.